Here's an image of the packing box from the book, followed by how mine came out:
Here you can see the clinched nails on the bottom's top, I tried to hammer them as smooth as possible but one may not want to put the most delicate of items in here without a liner. I'll do a post on clinching when I make box #2:
Here it is loaded up. It is actually quite ideal for books because it matches my golden moving tip: Don't put more books in a box than you actually want to carry. Its easy to pick a huge box and cram it so full that its ridiculous to lift.
Box closed. Its intended to be nailed shut, and true to the book, I drilled pilot holes for that. Modern folks would probably want hinges and a hasp added.
I have 2 more of these to make, plus a possible 3rd one which will be sized according to the scraps. I hope to add a little more detail with the different lessons learned and the basic operations involved with each iteration, so stay tuned and if you have questions about how/why, please leave them in the comments.
Nicely done.
ReplyDeleteAlso, it's good to see a fellow PNW fellow on a similar track. I'm up in Seattle, and I see you're down in Oregon.
Badger
http://badgerwoodworks.com/blog
Sweet, I might have to build one just for some hinge practice. It would make a great addition to the Jeep to keep odds and ends from rattling around. I think I'll try the 5 hour time limit mentioned in the book.
ReplyDeleteWhat's the thickness of the boards, 1/2"? Did it list possible uses for suck a box?
ReplyDeleteThe box as specified uses 1/2" pine. I used 1/2" poplar since that is all that was available near that thickness. The box is incredibly sturdy and rigid as it is. The intended use was to pack books for a journey by carriage; but I think it could be used to safely hold almost anything that would fit within it. Hinges would make it into a decent toolbox. I wlll probably make a smaller one with the scraps, add some dividers, and keep shop odds-and-ends like extra bench plane irons, routing plane irons, etc in it.
ReplyDelete