tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47438478279658351152024-03-19T01:31:48.223-07:00The Joiner's ApprenticeEthical woodworking, the old-fashioned way.upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.comBlogger193125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-79384957813646333992016-01-12T19:19:00.004-08:002016-01-12T19:19:37.902-08:00KeepaliveI'm not necessarily done blogging, nor done woodworking.<br />
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Comments here have been nothing but spam, so are temporarily disabled. You can probably figure out how to reach me if you'd like.<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-91624268088176831082015-02-28T15:05:00.001-08:002015-02-28T15:05:47.253-08:00A Tiny Toolbox<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-41060963358468849472015-02-23T20:12:00.004-08:002015-02-23T20:12:50.069-08:00A Way to Make Curves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I wanted to shape the handle of the <a href="http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2015/02/apprentices-apprentices-toolbox.html">toolbox</a> a little bit to make it more comfortable for a small hand After cutting a stick of walnut to length, I marked the center both horizontally and vertically. The vertical center would be the finished thickness and the peak of the arc on the bottom of the handle. I created the curve with a thin strip of wood, bent like a bow to connect the dots. Then I cut a series of vertical kerfs, just shy of the layout line. I should have set up my joinery bench but sometimes you have to live a little loose.</div>
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Flip it and make the cuts on the other side.<br />
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The cuts allow for very rapid chipping away and act as stops.<br />
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Although this walnut peels and pares beatifully, you can get very aggressive and take off almost the whole chunk if you drive the chisel hard enough.<br />
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Eventually with just the chisel you can get pretty close.<br />
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I did use spokeshaves to clean up a bit.<br />
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This is how I made the dowels which will hold the handle in place. Just a tiny stick with corners planed off using my miniature jointer.<br />
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The handle is just about done and ready to be installed.upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-55525115976777791772015-02-22T10:49:00.000-08:002015-02-22T10:49:02.956-08:00Apprentice's Apprentice's Toolbox<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When my daughter turned five, I told her she was ready for a real toolkit. She had already used some of my smaller planes to make "chocolate noodles" (walnut shavings) and she's had a pretty good command of righty-tighty lefty-loosey since the age of 2.5. I'm not quite ready to give her chisels, but it is time for her to have her own measuring tape since she has a habit of making off with mine. When she received the tools, she put them in a metal box, and I promised her we'd make one soon.</div>
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I was too busy prepping the panels to take many photos, but it is rather straightforward construction. Loosely based on the <a href="http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2013/08/japanese-tool-box.html">Japanese tool box </a>, but with a groove to hold the floor. Material is cheap cedar fence board that I picked the clearest sections from, so it is fairly clear and straight-grained. Cleans up very nicely once planed. The plow plane made a nice crisp groove with just a couple strokes. The bottom is just a panel beveled to enough of a taper to slip right into the groove.<br />
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I did some quick curves on the sides while she was playing with a friend. I don't know if I even want her to know the drawknife exists yet. The curve is just a traced metal tin that I had laying around and happened to fit nicely.</div>
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She excitedly arranged the contents of the kit (measuring tape, little hammer, stubby screwdrivers, bag of nuts and bolts) and admired the fit. She wants to add a wrench soon. I want to get her onto dividers and Sloyd knife ASAP but all things in time...<br />
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We still need to work on the handle, but the shop was cold and she wanted to go back inside. She surprised me by nailing the sides quite well. I even trusted her as I held the nails and she started them. She sank them nicely using a nail set, the soft cedar made this pretty forgiving work.<br />
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She said a couple days ago when we were planning it that she wants to paint it purple, which of course is not what I would do. It is her box, though, so I'm already resigned to seeing it covered with Disney Princess stickers. As we were working, she surprised me by saying "Would it be ok if we just oil it and see what the wood looks like?"<br />
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"Of course. We can do that."<br />
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That's my kid!upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-36532093025130822982015-02-16T09:04:00.002-08:002015-02-16T09:04:49.261-08:00HarvestSome more photos and notes of the Shaker-inspired harvest table:<br />
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You can see the simple mortise and tenon base assemble, with pivoting supports for the dropleaves. The legs were hewn from a massive slap of 12/4 cherry, the most expensive chunk of wood I have purchased to date. It was amazing, almost completely clear and free of defects. You can also see a small groove running around the inside perimeter, this is where the buttons which attach the top slip in, allowing them to move as the top does.<br />
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The aprons were drawbored into the legs, coaxing a very tight fit. No glue needed. Drawboring means that the holes for the pegs are made ever-so-slightly offset, so that as the pegs snakes through, it is pulling the joint more and more tightly closed. It must be done very carefully to avoid splitting, but results in rock-solid joinery.<br />
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I opted against a rule-joint on the top. I actually wanted to try one, but lack the moulding or rule joint planes required, and refused to resort to a power router. I looked at antique stores and found plenty of examples of this plain butt joint, and personally don't mind it's rustic look. In fact, I found many of the rule joints, while mechanically nifty, looked kindof gaudy to me. This table is 7 6" long. It is definitely about the largest thing I would hope to build on my bench in it's current form.<br />
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It seats 8 people relatively comfortably. The whole concept came about in order to comfortably seat a wheelchair user at once end while collapsing in to a smaller footprint for daily use. Here's a little <a href="http://fabcab.com/2014/11/03/a-dream-come-true-port-townsend-fabcab/">writeup about the house it is going into</a>.<br />
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The apprentice's apprentice helps with a final buffing of the pure tung-oil finish.upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-74362610909106270972014-10-26T15:22:00.003-07:002014-10-26T15:22:43.257-07:00Harvest SeasonDid I mention I've been working on a table? I've been working on a table. Not much, since mostly I have been working on work-- a full-time job which has very little (perhaps you could say <i>nothing</i>) to do with traditional woodworking.<br />
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So I rejoin the ranks of the weekend warrior. My shop doesn't have enough light to work in the evenings and frankly I am too spent to safely work after a day of work. If I didn't gouge myself with edge tools, I would certainly make mistakes and damage the workpieces.<br />
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Anyway, with Thanksgiving approaching, I've had to hustle to get a harvest table complete. It's coming along pretty well.<br />
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Gluing up 3 boards to make the top. That is some crazy photo effect my new phone did. I don't like it, and I know how to turn it off, but I did want to show how the artificial contrast reveals the crazy reversing grain on the boards (note the "cathedrals" running in opposite directions towards each other). Makes the surface planing very tricky. It's possible that it is a really bad idea to use boards like this for a tabletop, since they will move unevenly. I'm using grooves and Rockler fasteners (space-age "buttons") to accommodate this. Time will tell.<br />
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Trimming the top, the old-fashioned way. It's not hard and is faster and mellower than using a powersaw.<br />
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Edge-jointing the top. This table will have dropleaves along the long sides, so they need to be pretty square. In some cases a rule-joint would be used, and I was thinking about going that route. However I looked around at some old tables that used plain old square joints and really like the simplicity; the rule joints to me look a little too fancy even though they make perfect functional sense.<br />
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Here you can see the base dryfit, and perhaps perceive how the dropleaf supports work. Little sections (2 on each long face) swing out by pivoting on a nail in their center. It works pretty well and is about as simple as it can get.<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-33811229506849631792014-08-25T13:48:00.001-07:002014-08-25T13:48:39.410-07:00The Broken Chisel and the Shameless BirdhouseThe day started with laying out the mortises for the harvest table. This is somewhat finicky work, since if done with care, all other layout will cascade from the mortises, which themselves depend upon the mortise chisel's dimensions. If the outside edges of the mortises are consistent, the slop can fall to the inside where nobody will see it, but a consistent reveal will be visually apparent from the outside.<br />
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The kid came into the shop during this procedure, and I tried showing her what I was doing. Then it was time to do the chopping, which I knew she would not enjoy. Still, she insisted... so I gave her some earmuffs, and it was all going ok, until...<br />
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The tip of the mortise chisel suddenly snapped. Ah well, it's just metal. At this point, I did have to get the kid out of the shop since 1) I don't want her breathing metal filings and 2) I don't want my leg grabbed while using the grinder.<br />
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Good as new, or maybe better, since I put a new bevel angle on it. I do microbevel my mortise chisels, although there is some debate about it. It provides a steeper angle for one thing, and sharpness really does help in my experience, especially during the early, defining cuts. It does need to be touched up often, sometimes even within a single mortise, but with a good sharpening setup it takes so little time that it is well worth it. I always appreciate myself when I take the time to touch up an edge but can't really think of a time I have ever said "wow, glad I did not take the 45 seconds to sharpen up!"<br />
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The width of the mortise is defined by marks made by the chisel itself (seen at either end). Marking gauge is then set to that edge, and the inside mark is made. Good habit to mark waste since I are dumb and have chopped in the wrong area <i>more than once.</i><br />
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Using a technique Robert Wearing discusses in <i>The Essential Woodworker</i>, I like to make a series of shallow scores with the chisel, and then drag the side of the chisel along the mortise. This pops out all the little chips and leaves a well-defined shallow mortise in which to start the chopping in earnest.<br />
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You know the rest of the drill. If not, its a lot of hitting with a heavy mallet and prying out chips. Repeat. Repeat more, until complete. Then do the other 7 (2 per each of 4 legs).<br />
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Today, I started to lay out the tenons while explaining the process to same kid as above. She was not really feelin' it, so instead we made a birdhouse. Yes, I went there; don't judge. We often use an old-fashioned eggbeater to make pancakes or crepes, so it was pretty cool for her to point out that the drill we used for pilot holes "looks and sounds like an eggbeater".<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-28019659187988645252014-08-07T12:44:00.002-07:002014-08-07T12:44:40.089-07:00Harvest SeasonHere is a riddle:<br />
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Q. <b>What is eight feet long and has six legs?</b><br />
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A. While it sounds like some horrible prehistoric venomous insect (probably from Australia), it is actually a board of 12/4 (about 3" thick) cherry I picked up to make the legs for a table.<br />
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Ok, a table, sure. Eight feet should be plenty long enough, with a little room for grading out the clearest portion (note that pesky li'l knot above), but six legs? Is this some hexagonal thing?<br />
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No, it's a pretty straightforward drop-leaf table, vaguely Shaker in form. Here's the concept sketch, though the dimensions have changed:<br />
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Simple table with 4 legs, apron around the top. Drop leaves along the long sides. Here's the legs after a session of cutting and planing (yes it is a lot of work shifting to heavy, thick pieces after spending time on much smaller and thinner stock):<br />
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So why the extra two legs? Because I take the advice of woodworker and carver Dan Packard... make some extras. Hopefully you won't need them. If you don't make them, you will mess up and wish you had them. I had to purchase the entire board of this 12/4 cherry, which is about the price of a Lie Nielsen low-angle jack plane. I would hate to have to purchase another just to replace a bungled leg.<br />
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I'll be traveling soon... giving these legs time to settle. Later this month though, lots of hand-chopped mortising, tenoning the aprons, and figuring out how to work a table top which is larger than my workbench. Good times!<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-67491385511687154152014-07-16T17:25:00.001-07:002014-07-16T17:27:06.420-07:00Re-AssembledIn my real life, I do things that are not woodworking-related, and there has been a lot of that lately which makes time in the shop all but a distant memory. At the same time, the final steps of the secretary rehab involved many coats of stain (something I rarely use) to try to make the coloring a little more uniform between different woods of different ages. So I was able to every day or so quickly apply-another-coat-of-this or sand-that.<br />
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The cedar boards used for the new back started like this:<br />
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But after staining, shellacing, and waxing, they almost look at home:<br />
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The gallery was very challenging. Someone had painted part of the interior at some point and it was very difficult to sand it off without disassembling the whole thing, which was outside the scope of this repair (and budget). I did the best I could, and applied many layers of gel-stain which sits on top of the paint a bit. Lots of shellac, lots of sanding... and it is ok. Much better than it was, anyway.<br />
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Not a lot I can do about the door wood not really matching the interior desk surface, but it is all cleaned up and refinished and nicely smooth to the touch. The new hardware works great. The drawers are waxed and operate smoothly. This thing is ready for another hundred years of use and abuse.<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-3353796768425016782014-06-30T17:40:00.001-07:002014-06-30T17:40:18.939-07:00Rehab ContinuesIn <a href="http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2014/06/inpatient-rehab.html">part one</a>, we saw a drawer needing a new bottom. Now, we see the case needing a new back.<br />
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Looks kindof cool with no back, but that is not so functional. All the envelopes and stamps and paperclips this is meant to be stuffed with would fall right out and then when the Roomba came to sweep the floor, it would jam and play some weird chimes. So what about the existing back?<br />
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It suffered the same fate as the drawer bottom. The veneer had started to delaminate and the intermediate boards were warping and rotting. Kindof interesting, here, to see that the boards were held together with tape. This must have been a pretty classy outfit (not being sarcastic, it is a good idea, I guess?). I'm still unclear if this double-veneer sandwich would be considered plywood or not, but since it has tape in it, which lends an air of handwork to it, I will not use the p-word.<br />
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Here you can see a bit more of the damage, as well as the rot setting in.</div>
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I didn't have any more of the nice, wide Doug fir to throw at the back, but I do have a pile of cedar fence boards. These things are about $1.50 each and usually really wet and full of knots. I cherry-picked a pile some time ago, however. If you spend enough time, you can get several almost-clear boards, so long as you politely re-stack the pile. You can see here how furry they are. Good enough for a fence, maybe.<br />
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Enter my shameful friend. Since this piece was obviously produced in a factory (albeit a cool, old-timey factory with hand-taped veneer panels and drilling jigs for dovetails), I will not mar it's spirit by using my trusty thickness planer. I just put some new knives in, and kindof regret that since there are indeed some knots in these boards... but you gotta do what you gotta do.<br />
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Dust-collection archeological strata from bottom to top: Doug fir, cherry, walnut, cherry, Doug fir, and cedar. Every sack of junk has a history. The walnut, being an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allelopathy">allelopathic</a> plant, sadly renders this pile of shavings useless for the garden-- I would generally use these to cover paths or prepare long-term soil beds, but instead it will go to a friend with a burn pile. Wouldn't it be cool to have a dedicated planer for toxic species, and another machine which would just spit the shavings right into a compost/mushroom growing pile?<br />
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The boards look pretty good when they are done. A bargain if you have the time to let them dry out before you plane them (at least a year or more, around here)<br />
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They need to be jointed on the edges, they come pretty rough. Here you can see the sliding deadman in use. It helps tremendously to have the support in the back.<br />
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Square is as square does!<br />
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The goal here is to shiplap to boards, so that they can overlap to block light and material, yet still have some room to expand and contract. This is like copout tongue and groove. Where a tongue would normally fit into a groove (being "2 tongues"), shiplapping is having just tongues, but flipping every other board so that the tongues nest.<br />
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The first step is to lay out the line with a cutting gauge. A pencil won't work here because what is needed is a tool track. Very powerful stuff, the tool track.<br />
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Since shiplapping is essentially creating a rabbet, one might reach for a rabbet plane. An adjustable fence, a depth stop, and a skewed blade would be really nice. Since this is along the grain, a plough plane with an iron wide enough to hit the edge would be fine, too. But in this case... since the scale is so small, it is time for Li'l Shoulder to make an appearance.<br />
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The corner on this bad boy is ground to a sharp 90 degrees, so it registers right into the layout line. It should be clear now why you need a physical cut line, and not just a pencil. The plane clicks right in, and it does not take much effort to steer it down the track. It is started with an angle, around 45 despite what is shown above.<br />
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This deepens and widens the cut, creating a fence for the subsequent stroke. One of those things which gets easier and easier with each pass. It becomes possible to do the later passes without looking. Please look, though, because you might otherwise plane your fingerprints off.<br />
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Nice spiral shavings emerge, which are great packing material for an artisinal Etsy shop. I keep them in a velvet pouch waiting for the day when I have an artisinal Etsy shop.<br />
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There we go!<br />
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That is what we were after... nicely shiplapped boards. They will be installed with a bit of a gap between them, so that they can expand (close the gap) and contract (open the gap) but still have enough overlap that light and postage stamps are blocked from passing through.<br />
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It helps to number the boards as they are laid out, but number them on a face you won't see, unless you want to plane them off later.<br />
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I didn't measure a thing. I centered the first boards, and worked outward towards both sides. On the final edge boards, I make a mark where they need to be trimmed, cut a tiny bit (like one plane stroke) fat, and then plane down to the mark.<br />
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Bam! This handtool stuff is nice.<br />
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Using dividers is a good way to capture the location of the blade on top of the drawer. The backing boards will be nailed into this.<br />
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The dividers then place a prick on the boards. Again, no "measuring".<br />
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The prick from the dividers serves as a handy index to drop the marking knife into. A square is held up against the knife, and a line is marked. On a fine piece, I would then drill, and then plane off the layout lines. Since this is the back of a sortof unfine piece, I think I will keep the layout lines as a reminder that a person refurbished this at some point.</div>
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Still todo: reinstall the hardware and continue with the surface refinishing. Current plan is a dark shellac and some dark wax, but some time must pass before the tung oil is cured. </div>
upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-60176257209990117892014-06-29T17:22:00.000-07:002014-06-29T17:27:11.771-07:00Inpatient RehabNot me... but this cute little secretary desk I was asked to repair. I have had something like this on the builditsomeday list for a while, so a chance to inspect it was welcome.<br />
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This unit's main issue, functionally, is that one of the support hinges is missing, and the other was horribly mangled. There do not seem to be any direct replacements on the market, so I will probably order something slightly different.<br />
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Cosmetically, the thing needed some TLC. At some point, it had been stripped and re-stained, and then later someone had tried the same thing again, but gave up after only sanding the easy parts. This makes lots of mismatched coloring.<br />
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I was able to remove the top cluster of shelves (this is called the "gallery" if I am not mistaken) by removing the back of the unit. However, the back itself was trashed so I will replace it with new material. I was told by the owner that plywood was fine, but I just take that as a challenge.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvZWIDerya7tE89hKM30ByIjzKpQCsHUaqsTOHVBUNPvl1WBIPhVKk32M0u4_BRWWxXls05TnGTvqcKoEMGyY1lov1Jlqtvp8z_BUqluVzWT88v5kbKSaO9fD3-UNuR38Hs8AMJawpThG/s1600/IMG_0512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOvZWIDerya7tE89hKM30ByIjzKpQCsHUaqsTOHVBUNPvl1WBIPhVKk32M0u4_BRWWxXls05TnGTvqcKoEMGyY1lov1Jlqtvp8z_BUqluVzWT88v5kbKSaO9fD3-UNuR38Hs8AMJawpThG/s1600/IMG_0512.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gallery, "before". Note the sloppy sanding inside the compartments.</td></tr>
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The original back was plywood of sorts. It was several boards of 1/8th white wood covered with veneer on both sides. The back was painted black on top of that. The boards had warped in alternating directions, creating huge bulges in the veneer and popping over the nails in some locations. I think I will use shiplapped cedar to replace the back, but first things first...<br />
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I cleaned the whole unit with denatured alcohol just to get a better look at it and sense of what it looks like wet. I then did some exploratory sanding to see what was under the various layers of finish. Next was an overall sanding of the inside of the gallery, the most important part. The exterior of the piece looks like it just needs some fresh oil and wax, not a complete refinishing. I sanded the interior of the gallery as much as I could within scope of the project... that is, I was not going to take it apart or rebuild it. The task was to paint it if need be, but not to put "too much" work into it. I'm optimistic that perhaps with some dark shellac, it can remain "wooden" looking while evening out the color variations.<br />
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Step one has been to simply apply a layer of tung oil on top of whatever is there. It looks pretty good, at least while wet:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7dt5joKpPRY_NXh7SvtvUz7PwfhiD9e6yjk2wKdXZadbZOKzpTyUvT6ef-4QltyMye76AEtkbXLZfvN3H-U2lbgPteSTCtoBEwhhyqtP7w0gocpZ2-E9G_I1sdBPYvBLdVhgP5ODP2Mn/s1600/IMG_0513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7dt5joKpPRY_NXh7SvtvUz7PwfhiD9e6yjk2wKdXZadbZOKzpTyUvT6ef-4QltyMye76AEtkbXLZfvN3H-U2lbgPteSTCtoBEwhhyqtP7w0gocpZ2-E9G_I1sdBPYvBLdVhgP5ODP2Mn/s1600/IMG_0513.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So far, so good!</td></tr>
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While taking out the main drawer to oil it's face, it became apparent that the bottom of that was in the same bad condition as the back of the unit. It was also made of the same type of veneer sandwich.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwffFj_LKNkveSJnaDmAn_86uPd4_9efNpOJcxuVQveOPK7R8JvleLxhIqVpDJ0oy7sbaoT8jmPqnl0N1Xg-Ok61vAxQ0Io6ztVB77DWEGQt2LyGdD_TM5L9c1a-Qod-yKNl506_iNwuDE/s1600/IMG_0514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwffFj_LKNkveSJnaDmAn_86uPd4_9efNpOJcxuVQveOPK7R8JvleLxhIqVpDJ0oy7sbaoT8jmPqnl0N1Xg-Ok61vAxQ0Io6ztVB77DWEGQt2LyGdD_TM5L9c1a-Qod-yKNl506_iNwuDE/s1600/IMG_0514.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see the "real" wood in the bottom right corner. I thought about "reclaiming" the boards from under the veneer but after seeing how nasty they were, and how thin they already were, they went into the fire pile.<br />
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I had some sortof-thin Doug fir sitting around which seemed like a good candidate to make the drawer better-than-new. These are boards cut from my property in Oregon, and have been drying for a very long time. While I usually hate to plane down a board excessively, these boards which were essentially scraps, went from 1/2" to 1/4" thick via the magic of my favorite cheat: the thickness planer.<br />
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Rather than messing with carefully laid-our rabbits, I simply fielded the bottom panels with a bevel using a jack plane. It was very fast work. Nobody looks at the bottom of drawers anyway, and if they did, they would go "wow, someone did this by hand with a plane! Nice!"<br />
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As I knocked the drawer apart, which was thankfully easy, I did notice that originally it was glued. Failure over time? Had someone already busted it apart and put it back together without fresh glue? I doubt it. I assume that the glue just didn't hold up all that well.<br />
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I also noticed that these dovetails were, at least initially, machined. The round sockets indicate drilling. Planer marks were visible on some of the panels as well. This may not be a relic right out of Roubo's shop, but still a piece handsome enough to give some new life to.<br />
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And a new lease on life for this drawer. The new bottom should last another century or two. There is a little room in the back of the drawer for the boards to expand, so I glued it in the front but the back is floating. I also tacked in the back with a tiny brad, thinking that it will hold it firmly, but move as a spring if need be during expansion. I'll let you know in 45 years how that went.<br />
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Next up will be to re-assess the main unit once the tung oil dries, and then perhaps play some games with tinted wax and shellac to try to even it all out. Oh yeah, and making a new back. Stay tuned.upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-26001711639109649732014-06-22T14:01:00.002-07:002014-06-22T14:01:48.443-07:00Standing DeskI've wanted a standing desk ever since having a convertible Anthrocart at my last office job. Standing feels so much better for long stretches of coding or design, but there are times when I want to sit so was not quite ready to go for a dedicated standing desk at home. Nor was I willing to pay for something like an Anthrocart.<br />
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I'd notice a popular trend of using an inexpensive small Ikea table or shelf to create a standing-height work surface on a normal desk, but of course I had to try something homemade.<br />
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I made a simple trestle table in miniature, with a lower shelf acting as a stretcher which is secured by wedged through-tenons. The base and top are maple, the shelf is cherry. I was able to get the height perfect for my own standing posture and let the other dimensions unfold from there.<br />
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In this configuration I can easily stand to work on the laptop, or sit down to use an external mouse and keyboard if needed. The whole desklet easily pushes forward to create more "real" deskspace.<br />
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Building was simple work except for the wildly figured maple top. Many of my usual tricks failed on this board, and I ended up doing a lot of scraping by hand. After all that, I think the figure is kindof ugly... but it will usually be covered and it's always a good learning exercise to deal with a nasty board. I have some other boards from the same tree that are incredibly beautiful, but you never know until that first layer of fuzz is planed off.<br />
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This was in part a warmup on tenoning, since I will soon be building a full-sized dining room table.<br />
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Side project while the tung oil was curing: little locust brackets to hang some guitars so that I will remember to practice more often. Some people say guitars should never be hung, they should live in their cases. That is wisdom I accept intellectually, but I end up never playing them when I do that, and life is short. Now I need to make some little shelves for the speakers...<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-53939051576416535242014-06-07T13:46:00.000-07:002014-06-07T13:46:03.832-07:00Walnut School BoxIn <a href="http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/the-joiner-and-cabinet-maker-1">The Joiner and Cabinet Maker</a>, Thomas works primarily with deal, being a generic term for what was likely a softwood such as pine. While attempting to remain faithful to the projects described in the book, I have scoured the west coast for suitable deal-like woods. I've worked with hemlock, Douglas fir, western red cedar, yellow cedar, Port Orford cedar, spruce, ponderosa pine, and others. Very few of them offer the creamy workability advertised for Eastern white pine, which is not generally available here. I have therefore decided that my "deal" is to use regional hardwoods which balance affordability with workability. Poplar is nice to work with, but not stable over time. Alder and cherry are both excellent. This time, however, I used a plank of walnut milled from a local farmer and woodworker's acreage.<br />
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Construction is at this point very straightforward. I don't consult the text at all, I have it fairly well memorized. I still resist temptation to deviate from Thomas's plan much; I still use a birdcage awl to make the hole for the lock (although it is tempting to use a cordless drill). It is also tempting to dovetail the moulding since that is actually easier than accurate miters by hand. I did, however, step away from the strap hinges and opted instead to use brass butt hinges. The strap hinges hold some appeal but they are so dark that I thought they would be lost in the dark walnut. I was also tempted to add some lifts on the side but decided to keep it simple. I do like how this one turned out. I hope the recipient enjoys it.<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-16709582089399850302014-05-16T14:55:00.001-07:002014-05-16T14:55:56.338-07:00Reader Submission - James Oliver of BCThis winter I had a great time at the <a href="http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2014/01/woodworking-in-canada.html">Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event </a> in Victoria, BC. I met loads of interesting folks, and one talented woodworker in particular stood out from the crowd: James Oliver.<br />
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This is the guy who modestly claimed to be a beginner with hand tools, but casually put together a dovetailed box while "testing" the saws and chisels. He also brought along some panels of his carvings, which were wonderful. </div>
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He just sent me photos of his tool chest:</div>
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"Western maple carcass, cherry and hickory tills, the top edges of the runners are ipe. Bottom is t&g pine"</div>
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Nice work, James!</div>
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upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-87680648569831334092014-05-15T13:35:00.001-07:002014-05-15T13:35:22.250-07:00Installing Hinges By HandIn <a href="http://lostartpress.com/products/the-joiner-and-cabinet-maker-1">The Joiner and Cabinet Maker</a>, Thomas uses strap hinges on his school box. I've done a number of them, and do enjoy the process of installing them. However, I also like the more precise fit and clean look of slightly more modern butt hinges, and especially like those from <a href="http://www.horton-brasses.com/store/hinges/brassnickel/precisionbutt">Horton Brass</a>. So for the current School Box project, that is what I am using.<br />
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Installation of this type of hinge is covered pretty thoroughly in The Anarchist's Tool Chest, but for those who don't have that book or otherwise just want to see it in "real life", I took a few photos today. Sadly, some of the important steps did not photograph well, but I will try to explain.<br />
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Step one, as always, is layout. In this case, I found the centerpoint on the back of the box, and divided that in half. Each of these "quarter" marks will be the center of each of the two hinges. There are other formulas for placement, but this works well-enough and looks pretty good.<br />
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Once that mark is placed on the box, the lid is set exactly where it shall finally live. A hinge is roughly centered on the mark, and a careful strike with the marking knife is made on the outside edge of the hinge, knicking both the box and the lid at the same time. This is a registration mark of sorts, but also a physical detent to aid in the rest of the layout. While carefully holding the lid in place (think dovetail marking), this knick is repeated for the other hinge. </div>
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These are the photos that did not turn out. Maybe I will have to add a tripod and actual camera (can't find the tripod mount on my ipad) to my tool kit soon.</div>
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Once the registration nicks are in place, the lid is set aside, and a marking knife is set into the nick on the box body. The first hinge is put into place right next to the knife. This is where the physical detent a marking knife creates is revealed to be much more useful than, say, a pencil line. You really can't miss when you can drop your knife right into the line and press the hinge up against it. Try that with a pencil line.</div>
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The hinge is then simply traced. As usual, several light passes are made. It is especially important to be careful on the long side, as that is where the knife will try to follow the grain rather than the edge of the hinge. Slow, careful passes with slight increase in pressure each time is the method that seems to work best. It should be pointed out here that you want to work with the exact hinge which will be installed. These Horton hinges are so well-made as to be interchangeable, but that is a bad thing to rely upon and a bad habit. So work with one hinge at a time, and install it exactly where it was marked. Leave the other one wrapped up or in another room to avoid confusion. Mark them with tape if you have to.<br />
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In theory, you'll end up with a perfect outline of the hinge. Next, the depth needs to be marked on the back of the box. Since it would be awkward to hold the very thin hinge flush with the top of the box and trace, we shift tactics here and use a marking gauge.<br />
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The marking gauge is set to the exact depth of one leaf of the hinge. The gauge is then used to mark the bottom of the mortise on the back of the box.<br />
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A complete outline of the mortise will be the result. You'll see that I don't worry about overcutting a little bit. This is traditional, and functional. The gauge is physically creating the outline of the mortise. If you stop shy of the intersecting line, that corner will not be cut and will be prone to tearing out when you do get to it. If you overcut, the corner is already defined using your crisp layout tools, and your job is just to remove the stuff inside that area. If the extra layout lines bother you, just plane them off later (same with baselines on dovetail joints).<br />
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This is where many people would be tempted to get out their router. This is such a small mortise, though, that it took less than five minutes for me to complete it, even with taking a couple photos. It is also quiet, meditative work and every chance to improve chisel technique should be relished. Start by deepening the layout lines with a chisel and use extreme caution on the long face as it is very easy to split that off. I know from experience. The cross-grain chops can be a little more cavalier but at this point in the project, it is always best to slow down, or even walk away if it does not feel like the right day to be in this mindstate.<br />
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You can see that the cross-grain edges are chopped a little deeper than the long edge. I go very gingerly on that edge, as mentioned above. Once you are under the surface a little bit, you'll have a physical stop and as long as you go gently, it is pretty easy.<br />
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The exact method of waste removal here is then up to a variety of methods with your tool set, skill set, and material all offering input and constraints. You'll generally want to go with the grain to get the smoothest finish, but of course you have to go against it for at least a small part of it in order to get right into the uphill side of the mortise. On a larger piece, a router plane would be appealing to use for finishing, but in this case there is so little registration room left that I did not bother. That tiny one Veritas has would be fun in times like this, but I will have to wait until I win one in a contest or something. I used just a chisel here.<br />
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You'll also see that I bevelled the outside face just about down to the layout line. This gives a good visual indicator of getting close, without having to stop and peer down at the line itself very often. The different sheen of the angled wood gives a very nice orientation cue when viewed from above. One could stripe this facet with a China marker or similar for even more feedback, and know that material still needed to be removed until the striped disappear.<br />
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Here you can see the layout line is still visible, meaning a final paring is still needed. This is a good time to stop and test-fit the hinge. Then it is a matter of possibly paring down right to the line. If layout was off, the mortise can be carefully widened, but take care to only widen <i>inward</i>, or away from the tick line. You will never remember which way you did it when you get to the lid's mortise otherwise. Again, I know from experience.<br />
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An excellent fit. In this case, I pared to the layout line right across the grain. This is simple to do, if you go gently and do not shove the chisel right through the very thin remaining back wall of the mortise. However, slicing across the grain leaves a slightly rough (rather than glassy) finish. Since only another woodworker should ever see what is underneath the hinge during a repair, glass-smooth is not important here; just flatness. So if this were a mortise which would be visible at times, I would have probably pared along the grain with the bevel down, a lot of sweating and cursing, and abdominal clenching.<br />
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I've been pretty sick the past few days and after this hinge went so quickly and smoothly, I wanted to quit while I was ahead... so I did. The other hinge, and then the mortises on the lid are the same process. Everything unfolds from that first tickmark... "Cut to the line, you'll be fine".<br />
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I use a punch of appropriate diameter to mark the center of the screw holes, then a gimlet to create a pilot hole. I have learned from experience to then install the hinge using steel screws, which are then removed and replaced with brass screws once everything is perfect. Brass screws are too precious to ruin with the required torque for the initial installation. Again, experience. Heed my warning, or get your own.upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-38519852677460856882014-05-12T17:13:00.002-07:002014-05-12T17:13:26.196-07:00Uncle Bob's Box<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As a kid, we always had this little cabinet in my house. It was built by my great uncle, who more or less introduced me to woodworking. The box is full of memories as it travelled to several homes, and then finally was given to me by my mother last year.<br />
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I decided to reverse engineer it, and in the process learned a fair bit about how Uncle Bob built it. The one thing I had trouble with was finding appropriately small hinges. I also opted for brass knobs rather than the "shaker" wood knobs he chose.<br />
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Always a bit of a prankster, he dated the box (which I believe was in fact built in 1952).<br />
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Here's my version, done in cherry. I plucked all dimensions using dividers or the piece itself as a story stick. I consciously avoided most of the improvements which came to my mind. I used copper nails (something I have become fond of in this maritime town). The drawer is rabbeted, but most of the construction is simple butt joints glued and secured with nails. With something this small, it should be plenty strong. The original has in fact taken quite a beating and never suffered.<br />
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Only in building it, did I realize that by removing the drawer, there is a bit of a secret compartment underneath. Not sure if that was an intentional element of design, or if it was an aesthetic choice to have the gap under the drawer.<br />
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I opted not to put a knob on the top, it looks awkward to me, and the overhang of the top door leaves plenty of purchase for opening. I also did not use a stain, as Bob did. I just used several coats of tung oil. It has already darkened considerably in the sun.<br />
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I really enjoy these small scale projects. Other than sourcing or producing very thin stock and miniature hardware, these quick projects are full of the type of gratifying discovery that makes woodworking so great.<br />
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I dated mine, as well. My daughter has decided she wants the old one in her room, which I think is appropriate. The replica went to my mother as a gift. Happy Mother's Day, mom!upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-5630496407467197682014-04-30T16:37:00.001-07:002014-04-30T16:37:30.911-07:00Walnut... an almost perfect woodI love how walnut behaves. It has a subtle but rich chantoyance, the figure can be absurdly amazing, and the chocolately color is gorgeous long before any finish is applied. It is tough and durable, holds crisp details very well, and despite that, it is not all that difficult to work. It grows somewhat abundantly in North America, making it one of the best alternatives to imported tropical hardwoods. It is always on my short list of choices for furniture projects.<br />
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However, I am slightly bothered by it. Rather, my body is.<br />
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I am not allergic to nuts, but I definitely know when I have been working with Walnut. I discovered this in depth while preparing stock for a walnut rocking chair course. A truckload of planks had to be milled into various sized almost-complete components so that the students could focus on details, not stock prep. This involved many days of cutting, planing, routing, and sanding the walnut. I was fine for the first couple days but quickly noticed that my lips and mouth would be tingling afterwards (no, I did not lick any of the sawdust, and yes, I work dust protection). I found this amusing more than anything else.<br />
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As wood sensitivity goes, however, these things tend to get worse over time. So it has been with walnut. It seems that each exposure bothers me a little more. Today I merely ran a board through a thickness planer and cut it with handsaws, and I have had the tingle all day. It feels like I am thirsty and need to brush my teeth, but it is unshakable.<br />
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I'm not giving up on walnut, I love it too much. I do wear a respirator when machining it, but don't think I can handle that while using handsaws. If it doesn't get much worse, I will just consider it one of the aspects of working with it... I do hope I do not have to drop it from my list, as many have done with yellow cedar, for example.<br />
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Another small chest is on it's way...<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-54452750937264559002014-04-21T13:55:00.000-07:002014-04-21T14:01:35.392-07:00Apothecary ChestA while ago I mentioned building an apothecary chest based on a design from a book about their history. I learned a great deal in building it, but was not satisfied with the end result. Part of the carcase shifted during glue-up (It was square, I swear!!!) and so despite tweaking the hinges, planing the bottom, and other emergency fixes, the thing was just frustrating. I shrugged and promised myself to rebuild it someday.<br />
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In the meantime, the cabinet just languished. One of the pulls I hastily made for it broke, and I was not motivated to fix it. Well, I have been in the mood to tie up loose ends lately, so I finally adjusted it.<br />
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There is nothing I can do about the carcase being misshapen, short of rebuilding it. I did, however, disassemble it and plane it enough so that it opened and closed sweetly. I built a new latch and pulls for the front, and outfitted the shelves with a lip to help secure the contents. I created and installed a little pull for the maple drawer face, and I built a shelf for the whole thing to sit on.<br />
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The dark wedge-shaped shadow on the top right shows clearly how out of square it is.<br />
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Part of me wanted to treat it like a Japanese ceramic student... to destroy the botched item and move on to the next one. However, I instead mounted it next to my bed to serve as a reminder every day that I need to work at my work. Besides, its still perfectly serviceable.<br />
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One of my frivolous pursuits is that of incense and, in particular, tree resins. As these can be pretty pricy, I tend to buy the smallest sample quantities available. I have quite a little pile of myrrhs, copals, frankinsenses, sandalwoods, and other aromatic resins.<br />
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Given the spirit of the original chest is to organize tinctures, herbs, and medical paraphernalia, an incense cabinet seemed a fitting purpose.<br />
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The inside offers plenty of storage space, and was designed around a module of some glass apothecary jars I purchased. These will serve to hold the various treasures. The narrow slots on the sides of the center section are perfect for the tongs, scoops, and other implements used when melting aromatic saps. My electric incense heater sits comfortably atop the cabinet.<br />
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Much nicer than the shoebox I was using before, imperfect as it is.<br />
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Soon, back to making new things.upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-85738629798139180552014-04-14T14:09:00.001-07:002014-04-14T14:09:40.353-07:00School Chest + Packing CabinetsA while ago, I made the Joiner and Cabinet Maker <a href="http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2011/09/packing-box-done-but-unfinished.html">Packing Boxes</a> out of poplar, since it was the only thin stock I could find in the area. It turned out to be a good exercise on many levels, but the deepest lesson took a while to reveal itself. I now know how unstable poplar can be. The packing box lids are held down with a beefy batten and clinched nails... they should be quite strong. However, these warped like crazy. I had them nailed shut for a while, so they seemed flat, but as soon as I pulled the nails out, the doors sprung back into a saddle shape. This makes for an unsatisfying box.<br />
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However, it does not matter for shop cabinets! The doors still do not close satisfyingly crisply, but I put some of those hokey cabinet magnets in them, and they work just fine. I realized that while I do enjoy working right out of the tool chest, I do not like working out of tool rolls. That has been remedied, as I now have a place for auger bits, gimlets, and eggbeater drill bits. The other cabinet is awaiting it's purpose, but I am certain it will prove handy.<br />
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The bit holder is maybe temporary, I simply drilled holes in a piece of pine. It might be ok. I would maybe like to add a support for the shafts of the bits, or maybe hang them. Dunno yet but I am glad I don't have to dig out the roll and unroll it each time I need one now. I will also note that I do use gimlets pretty frequently, at least the small ones. They are quite handy for pilot holes, and possibly faster than setting up the eggbeater drill. I would use the drill if there were more than a couple holes. I've also been thinking about improving my gimlets by adding some sort of loose sleeve to hold onto, their crude finish is not comfortable.<br />
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Here is the pair of "packing cabinets" in their newfound orientation:<br />
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And what is that overgrown School Box there, you say? What a great question. That is what I called the <a href="http://www.thejoinersapprentice.com/2013/10/current-and-coming-projects-workbench.html">Anarchist's School Box </a> back in October when I started it. It is finally warm enough in the shop again so I have finished it up. Here is a closer look:<br />
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This is a bit larger than the J&CM School Box, and so I felt it needed lifts. After quickly flirting with some wooden versions, I felt that more elegant brass fit the bill a bit better.<br />
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This box is for a fountain pen collector, and so it has 3 tills for the pens, which reveal room below for ink, notebooks, and other supplies.<br />
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The top till has pen holders made of walnut. I simply bored 6 holes into a small scrap, which I then resawed to make it thinner, and then ripped those in half. The other tills are empty for the user to outfit as he wishes.<br />
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The body is made of cherry, while the tills have cherry fronts and backs with pine sides. The box bottom is cedar. I am pleased with how it turned out, and now want a miniature toolchest of my own! Instead of Anarchist's School Box, I think it might be more appropriate to call this a School Chest. I hope it is enjoyed, as I certainly enjoyed building it.<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-89857760907576131722014-04-01T15:59:00.001-07:002014-04-01T15:59:15.318-07:00Tolpin's Tool ToteWith the weather finally turning favorable (my shop is currently unheated) and the addition of a drawknife and spokeshave to my tool kit, I did some long-overdue woodworking this week.<br />
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I've used a little dovetailed box for a few years to hold my benchtop essentials: marking knife, marking gauges, square, folding ruler, dividers, lead holder + sharpener, shims (for stabilizing a not-yet flat board during planing), and paraffin. Maybe a bench dog or two will hang out in there. The problem is that my box is too deep, stuff just piles up, and it is always feeling possible to stab myself on divider points or marking knife if not careful.<br />
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And so whenever I watch Jim Tolpin work, putting his marking knife back into his little benchtop tote, never needing to dig to pick it up again, I am always a little envious. It is one of those projects that probably everyone needs to do, but it never really rises to the top of the list. While doing some Spring cleaning, I decided enough was enough and put one together.<br />
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It's a fun little project, and does not take long. It is also a good exercise in harmonic design. I have no idea how many inches long or high or deep it is, the members were all sized relative to each other using whole-number ratios and stepping out onto a story stick using dividers. The base module was my handspan, which, more often than not, is agreeable to hand tools and other objects intended to be held in a hand. I did not want to make it too large, or it would be tempting to really fill it up... this is just for the essentials.<br />
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The handle (mildly figured maple in my case) was fun to shape with the drawknife, and pretty quick, too. I always need more practice making fair curves and doing symmetrical work, and I learn a great deal each time. This was no exception... Slowing down and creating a good template out of the right material is, for me, mandatory.<br />
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One design detail if you do decide to build one of these, is that ideally the short ends-- which the divider is rabbeted into-- should have their lap-fingers on the bottom. In this way, as the tote is lifted, the fingers will then lift the sideboards. With something this small and light it probably does not matter, but Jim did notice that in his book he shows a version with them oriented the less-ideal way.<br />
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I'm looking forward to seeing the cherry sides and ends darken and contrast more with the maple as time goes on. The bottom is pine, which was beveled just enough to fit into a groove which travels along the lower inside faces of the side and end boards.<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-69049907661442264002014-03-16T13:59:00.000-07:002014-04-01T15:41:31.425-07:00Jim Tolpin's Spring Cleaning Tool Sale is Here!<br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">HOW IT WORKS:</span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">First come, first serve. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Send me (rob dot campbell at gmail dot com) any questions you have about the items. Jim and I will work with you to answer to your satisfaction. Once you want an item, send me an email claiming your intent to purchase, and I will send you payment instructions. Cash, personal check, money order, and paypal are all acceptable. </span><span style="background-color: white;">Items will be shipped upon receipt of payment. If you want multiple items, shipping may be reduced.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Save on the shipping by picking up personally in Port Townsend, WA. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">All items are sold as-is so please ask any questions before purchase. That said, if you truly feel an item was misrepresented and you return it undamaged, we will be reasonable.</span></div>
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Stanley 10 1/2 Carriage Maker's Plane</h3>
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This is a newer (1950s-60s) plane in excellent condition. These are moderately difficult to find at an affordable price and this one works just fine. The iron is clean and sharp. The side of the plane has Jim's signature signature. That might sound funnier out loud. Nevermind. He has etched his name on the side.<br />
<i><b><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU</span></b></i><br />
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Funky Drip Edge Plane:</h3>
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This was sold as a plane to create the drip edge on a window sill. Jim picked this up many years ago and never did put it to work. It would be fun to see it put into actual use, or you may prefer it as an unusual and arguably handsome display piece.<br />
<i><b><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU</span></b></i><br />
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<h3>
Ron Brese Smoothing Plane:</h3>
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This was leftover from a previous sale. Two buyers expressed interest but did not follow through. This plane works well but Jim is moving towards smaller and lighter tools and this plane deserves to be used.<br />
<b style="color: #38761d;"><i>$ Make an offer </i></b></div>
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<h3>
Lie-Nielsen #4 Bronze Smoothing Plane:</h3>
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Everyone wants a LN smoothing plane. Here is one at a great price. Jim has decided he prefers the #3 size for his body and his work, but just as many people prefer the slightly larger #4. This has been Jim's daily driver for a while, so it is not as shiny as a brand new one but it is in excellent shape, the blade is good, and this will outlive you (and your kids) if you treat it well. Jim has inscribed his name on the side. Yours would look good next to it.<br />
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<i><b><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU</span></b></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Independence Tool Company Dovetail Saw</b></span></div>
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This is the legendary tool from the legendary makers. Lie-Nielsen ended up purchasing this company and this saw remains the model for their version. This is a wonderful (and rare) saw, and I would not hesitate to purchase it myself if I had not already acquired a Lie-Nielsen. This is numbered 178 and Jim inscribed his name on it. This was Jim's favored dovetail saw for quite a while so it has some expected patina and scuffs but is overall in great shape. Possibly better-than-new since Jim has sharpened it and it will arrive ready-to-use.<br />
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<a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/premium-backsaws-a-history-lesson">An article about the saw</a> by Christopher Schwarz<br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU!</span></i></b><br />
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<h3>
Brace:</h3>
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I couldn't find a maker's mark on this brace, but it would be a terrific user. It has a 12" sweep and the chuck appears to have been overhauled since it is unusually clean and smooth. The ratchet mechanism works well, but is a bit unusual; each direction of travel has it's own on/off toggle. The handles are wooden.<br />
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<i><b><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU</span></b></i></div>
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<h3>
Handmade Layout Square:</h3>
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Jim talks about the process of building a square in his book, The New Traditional Woodworker. He also uses it as an exercise in his beginning woodworking classes. Wooden squares are light, won't ding your projects, and won't damage your marking knife. Jim made this one of walnut and quartersawn oak, using copper fasteners to secure the blade in place. This square is quite true. This could be your personal square, or the one you use to lay out your own. I like these enough that I'd say it makes a decent and affordable bit of wall art, too. </div>
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU!</span></i></b></div>
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<h3>
Mortise Gauge:</h3>
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This is a cool tool. Has the two pins you need to mark both sides of a mortise, but also has a single pin AND a knife of sorts (although this bit might need some fine tuning to work properly). I am fond of this unit, it is kindof freaky, kindof bad-ass looking, and kindof dignified, all at once. It works just as intended but if I were hanging onto this I think I would put it on my desk in an office and invent a new story anytime someone asked what it was. </div>
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<i><b><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU</span></b></i><br />
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<h3>
Bridge City SS2X4 Saddle Square:</h3>
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Sometimes your work has contours or angles other than 90. This unique tool addresses that. This has some tarnish spots which could be removed without undue effort, but it is up to you if you want to brighten it or keep the patina.<br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU!</span></i></b></div>
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<h3>
Bridge City SS-DT Dovetail Saddle Square:</h3>
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As above, this lets you transfer layout onto non-perpendicular surfaces. Gives you a choice of 2 popular dovetail slopes. This was over a hundred bucks new and you can't even buy them anymore, so this is a serious score for those who are into this kind of thing.<br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU!</span></i></b><br />
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Bridge City DG-2 and HG2:</h3>
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This is a three-in-one wondergizmo. It is a depth gauge, a height gauge, and with the removable cutter installed, a panel/marking gauge. You can see some tarnish in the photo but this tool is fully functional and very accurate with it's ability to calibrate. Bridge City tools are always beautiful and this is no exception. Read more about it: http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/dg-2-depth-gage.html<br />
Original packaging is long gone, but the booklet is included.<br />
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<i><b><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU</span></b></i></div>
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Buck Brothers Chisel:</h3>
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My measurements show this thing as 31/32nds of an inch wide. Maybe it was meant to be metric, what is that, 25.5mm? Maybe my ruler is wrong. Anyway, relatively wide chisels like this are super-useful even if you are not using it to create a groove exactly one inch wide. This has a leather pad on the handle and the blade is in great condition. Could easily be your every day workhorse, or, if you are already set you could throw it in your household repair box and have the nicest beater chisel on the block.<br />
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<i><b><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU</span></b></i><br />
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<h3>
Lie-Nielsen Mortise Chisel (5/16"):</h3>
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Great condition, no issues, Jim happened to have a spare so here's your chance to save a bit as well as say "Oh yeah, that was Jim Tolpin's" whenever your buddies admire it.<br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">SOLD THANK YOU!</span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: red;">HOW IT WORKS:</span></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">First come, first serve. Send me (rob dot campbell at gmail dot com) any questions you have about the items. Jim and I will work with you to answer to your satisfaction. Once you want an item, send me an email claiming your intent to purchase, and I will send you payment instructions. Cash, personal check, money order, and paypal are all acceptable. </span><span style="background-color: white;">Items will be shipped upon receipt of payment. If you want multiple items, shipping may be reduced.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Save on the shipping by picking up personally in Port Townsend, WA. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">All items are sold as-is so please ask any questions before purchase. That said, if you truly feel an item was misrepresented and you return it undamaged, we will be reasonable.</span></div>
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-69172587356227901732014-03-14T09:40:00.000-07:002014-03-14T11:55:29.825-07:00Jim's Tool Sale will begin Sunday, Mar 16 at 2pm PacificIn an attempt to keep it somewhat fair this time around, I am going to pre-announce the launch point of Jim's tool sale in advance. The sale will start Sunday, Mar 16 at 2pm Pacific. This should give folks all over a chance to be near a computer if they choose.<br />
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Here are a couple of the items which will show up:<br />
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- A Stanley 10 1/2 carriage maker's plane (wide rabbeting plane)<br />
- An Independence Tool Works dovetail saw serial #178(the one Lie-Nielsen took their design from)<br />
- one of Jim's handmade squares as seen in The New Traditional Woodworker<br />
- some gently-used LN tools<br />
- Bridge City layout tools<br />
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and more! It should be a good one, and this time you have had your warning if you want to be able to jump on any of the deals.<br />
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Thanks for your patience and continued interest.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">NOTE: Inquiries about these tools received before the listing and prices go live will be ignored. </span><br />
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rob and jimupriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-4335139099677049732014-03-04T14:31:00.000-08:002014-03-04T14:31:04.975-08:00Bonus Jim Tolpin Tool Sale!!!It was claimed that the final round of Jim Tolpin's tool sale had concluded.<br />
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Nothing is certain. Not in woodworking, not in blogging, and not in blogs about woodworking.<br />
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In a day or two I will have another batch of fine tools available, and I daresay this will be the best yet.<br />
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Hints: Bridge City, Independence, Lie-Nielsen.<br />
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When will the blog talk about woodworking again? Well, I have a new roof on my (formerly cold and leaky) shop. The weather is turning. Soon I will be woodworking again, so soon I will be writing about it again. Thanks for your patience!upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-39648570888593971532014-01-14T10:39:00.002-08:002014-01-14T10:39:32.652-08:00Woodworking in CanadaThis weekend I was fortunate enough to be able to assist with the <a href="http://www.lie-nielsen.com/events/canada/">Lie-Nielsen Tool Event</a> in Sidney, BC. While being only 35 miles away from my home in Port Townsend as the crow flies, this crow cannot fly and so instead it takes a few hours by car and ferry, and then some time as determined by the friendly (we hope) immigration and customs officials.<br />
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Arriving Thursday afternoon, I met with <a href="http://www.urbanwoodworker.com/?page_id=15">Jeremy Tomlinson</a>, the Canadian rep for the company. I had met him before at the Wooden Boat Festival, but it was quite enjoyable to have some more time learning about his fascinating background and career. With Jeremy, a very simple question can turn into a 30-minute long answer, and this is a good thing. I was introduced to the order-placing process and some of the business practices of the company, and then we set up the event space. Sadly I was too busy to take a lot of photos, but you have probably seen this stuff before... a few workbenches to test tools upon, a sharpening station, an order desk, and of course the glorious racks of demo tools, each tuned up and ready for the public to test-pilot.<br />
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The Event took place at <a href="http://www.westwindhardwood.com/">West Wind Hardwood</a>, a small family-run business. There is a cliche in the US about how nice Canadians are, and it is well-founded! These folks were utterly gracious in hosting us, even as we had to take over their flooring showroom for a day. Lots of fun getting to know the staff there, as well as perusing their stash of hardwoods and antique tools. If I had not taken a passenger ferry with just a backpack to haul my stuff, I would have been sorely tempted by some of their figured maple!<br />
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We also took a moment to check out the <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/us/">Lee Valley</a> store. While I have seen their catalogs for years, I had never been to one of their shops. Very interesting! They keep most of the good tools behind glass, so it is not all that easy to get a feel for them, but the employees are helpful enough with questions. Of course while walking between islands of tools, one is confronted with all the weird and wonderful impulse-purchase items that Lee Valley is so skilled at sourcing. Their gardening section would probably lure me in if I lived nearby.<br />
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The Tool Event went smoothly, lots of happy customers. One of them went ahead and put together a complete dovetail joint while "trying out the chisels". I made a quick tenon to demonstrate how the shoulder planes are used. A young woman came in and learned to flatten a board with a handplane, and was giggling nonstop about how fun it was. Another fellow came in to outfit his shop with all the basics... I envied him!<br />
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Of course everyone enjoyed trying the #51 shooting plane, although nobody purchased one. We can all dream...<br />
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I was happy to learn that the Lie-Nielsen plow plane will be out soon. Photos of it are stunning! It has a much improved depth stop. I was told it will be $225, and include a 1/4" iron with others available later.<br />
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Personally, I came to the conclusion (after much repeated trial) that I might really prefer a #8 jointer to my familiar #7. Time to start saving up!<br />
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I had such a good time that I might also go to Vancouver Event. This will be held at the <a href="http://roundhouse.ca/programs/adult/?to=woodworking-1977">Roundhouse</a>, where Mr. Tomlinson teaches his woodworking classes. I am eager to see the space after hearing about it. What a great asset to the Vancouver area!<br />
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I've been to a handful of these Tool Events and I have to continue to highly recommend them. Even (or especially) if there is no intent to purchase a tool, the wisdom and inspiration available is priceless, and free!<br />
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I must also tack on a photo of the West Wind shop dog, Ruby. A troublemaker, for sure, but such velvety ears make up for many a sin. Any guesses on her heritage? Her master was not sure. I have my guesses, but who knows. She is larger than she might look in this image; at six years old, she was about as large as a dog could be and still have you wanting to pick her up. The perfect "big dog in a small package" as far as I am concerned. I look forward to seeing her, and British Columbia, again.<br />
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<br />upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4743847827965835115.post-48965114405942506982014-01-08T09:43:00.002-08:002014-01-08T11:19:46.356-08:00Upcoming things, and thanks to the Christophers!<br />
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This weekend, Jan 10 and 11, I will be in Victoria, BC to assist at the <a href="http://www.lie-nielsen.com/events/canada/">Lie-Nielsen Tool Event</a>. If you have never been to one, it is a fantastic opportunity to not only try most of the product range out in person, but also receive guidance on selecting the proper tool for the type of work you are interested in. For someone just getting started, the opportunity to use a truly sharp tool (as well as witness sharpening demos) is priceless, and well worth the cost of admission, which is free, so, really, you can't lose. This one will be at <a href="http://www.westwindhardwood.com/">West Wind Hardwood</a> (which is actually in Sidney). If you are in the region, please stop by and say hello. I'll be working alongside <a href="http://www.urbanwoodworker.com/?page_id=15">Jeremy Tomlinson</a>, whom I had the pleasure of getting to know at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival this summer.<br />
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Another exciting event coming up in this area is George Walker's visit and <a href="http://www.ptwoodschool.com/foundations_of_design.html">design course</a>. If you have read <a href="http://www.lostartpress.com/product_p/bk-bhae.htm">By Hand and Eye</a> (or even if you haven't), this is an amazing chance to delve deep into the design system that nature uses, and which has informed craft since the beginning of history. Only recently has it been derailed by machine-thinking. Once you understand these principles, designs almost generate themselves, and the artisan is freed up to consider personal embellishments and style. Truly liberating stuff. There are still spaces in George's <a href="http://www.ptwoodschool.com/foundations_of_design.html">course</a> at the Port Townsend School of Woodworking. George and Jim Tolpin will also host a smaller exploration into the <a href="http://www.ptwoodschool.com/by_hand_and_by_eye.html">By Hand and Eye concepts via a course of the same name</a>. This two-day seminar is full of mind-expanding ideas and examples to get you out of the ruler mindset and into the harmonic relationships which turn furniture design into something like musical arrangement. I highly recommend this class.<br />
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Finally, I wanted to thank Christopher Kuehn of <a href="http://www.sterlingtoolworks.com/">Sterling Toolworks</a> for conspiring with my wife this holiday season. She had been poring over Christopher Schwarz's gift list, knowing that I don't actually <i>need</i> any tools. I received a beautiful saddle gauge, and I love it. Many will balk at how it is over-engineered and that one really does not need a dovetail marker anyway. I don't tend to use them, myself. However, once this thing is felt in the hand, the naysayer's tune may in fact change. It is substantially heavy, crisp, and is larger than it looks. The back half of the tool is a fantastic small try and layout square. I might just start to prefer this for small squaring tasks. Above all, supporting a small toolmaker is a gift that keeps giving to everybody involved in the craft, as well as their families. For those who ogle the handmade planes, chisels, and other marking tools out there but cannot afford them, this tool is a great way to sip from the chalice of fine tools without breaking the bank. Thanks to all who made this happen.<br />
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upriverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16831787533348044017noreply@blogger.com1